Nestling in the Tuscan hills, like a three pointed star, Siena retains much of its medieval character and atmosphere despite being a magnet for tourists. The city is defined by its civic and ecclesiastical centres:
The Palazzo Pubblico's harmonious architectural style provided a model for domestic dwellings exemplifying "civilized" life under the elected "Nine".
Its Torre del Mangia dominated the skyline both within the city and its contado beyond.
The majestic segmented Campo provided a visual metaphor for the ruling body and a place for the citizens to congregate to hear sermons by Saint Bernard as well as proclamations from the government. This space acts as a bridge across the ages from the 13th. century in which the famous horserace, the Palio, was first run until the present day.
The ecclesiastical centre of Siena, the majestic Duomo, is an extraordinary building which reflects the changing fortunes of the City. Dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption, it sheltered Duccio's sublime and radically innovative "Maesta" of 1308, commissioned after the unexpected victory of the Sienese over the Florentines at Monteperti in 1260. Images of the Virgin are everywhere, as one would expect in a City that itself is dedicated to Her.
We will study at first hand the works of art which reflect both the civic pride of the city and its piety.
Ecclesiastical centre: Facade, Duomo Nuovo, Baptistery, Duomo interior
Santa Maria Della Scala, Museo dell'Opera del Duomo, Duomo crypt
Civic centre: Palazzo Pubblico, Capella di Piazza, Campo, Torre del Mangia
Palazzo Piccolomini, Pinacoteca Nazionale, Duccio's house (where the Maesta was made)
Palazzo Tolomei (exterior), San Francesco, Palazzo Salimbeni
Fonte Branda (Via Tiratoio), San Domenico
Siena is very hilly so be prepared for quite a lot of energetic walking!
It would be a good idea to bring a torch and some binoculars since some churches/monuments are very dark and often inaccessible. Be prepared also for cold, wet weather.
Links to airlines flying to Florence
- Meridiana
Despite the city's lack of distinguished Roman antecedents, Siena's rulers in the Middle Ages, anxious to increase the city's prestige, adopted the she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus as an emblem of the city. Siena owed its importance to its location on the Via Francigena, the pilgrim route from France to Rome.
In the 12th century the commercial classes started to curb the power of the magnates and bishops through the founding of a Commune, which soon adopted a policy of territorial expansion. Political and commercial rivalry resulted in continuing conflict with Florence, while the deep-rooted involvement of the Commune in daily life is well illustrated by a statute of 1248 'concerning hair, which men are wearing too long; it must be cut so that at least some of their neck is visible from the back'.
The Sienese supported the Ghibelline (imperial) cause and at Montaperti in 1260 defeated the pro-papal Guelf forces of Florence; six years, fear of economic sanctions led them to switch their allegiance to the Pope. In 1287 the mercantile oligarchy (popolo grasso) replaced the Commune with a Council of Nine, who reached an accommodation with Florence in the interest of trade.
With the population devastated by the Black Death, the Council of Nine were overthrown in 1355. The wool-workers rose in revolt in 1371; in 1399, the city fell to Gian Galeazzo Visconti of Milan. After his death, Siena returned to a period of unrest which lasted throughout the 15th century.
